We began our day by learning about Krispy Kreme. All you doctors, don't read this. We watched, fascinated, as the doughnut circles snaked their way up Lovely shaded square and down on little green trays through the hot air of the rising oven and then were dropped, swollen and rounded, into a bath of hot oil, where they floated along, apparently propelled by no more than the desire to be eaten. Half way through the bath they ran into a dam, which raised them up and plopped them upside down to brown the other side. The cooked donuts then rolled through a curtain of melted sugar glaze where, if you liked, the clerk would snatch them up to serve them to you HOT, as declared by the neon sign in the window. Those that were not eaten immediately by customers or handed out the drive-through window were boxed for immediate transport to a nearby store fortunate enough to sell Krispy Kreme doughnuts. When they are hot, they taste heavenly. Two donuts and a cuppa make a fine breakfast.
There are lots of things you might want in a city. But if you want beautiful landscaping and nineteenth century architecture, then downtown Savannah Horse drawn sightseers in the springtime is about as good as it gets. We felt that this area rivalled Paris or Washington in beauty.
About every two blocks, in either direction, there's a square; the street enters in the middle of one side and turns right, then left, then left again, then right and you're on the same street again on the other side of the square. There must be twenty or so of these squares in downtown Savannah. In between the squares are double-wide boulevards with beautifully planted park in the middle.
We parked the truck; as soon as we were on foot everything got even prettier. Standing in the middle of the square, surrounded by brilliant azaleas and tulips, we saw heroic monuments and fountains, benches and cobbled walks, detailed explanatory signs (hats off to Georgia historians) and gorgeous buildings peeking through the greenery at every corner. It was surely a case of pictures being worth thousands of words, and we're enclosing a few. Those who'd like to see more of our Savannah photos, please write and we'll send them along. Beautiful tulips
This was the week when lots of homes were opened to the public for tours, and we saw plenty of tourists on foot, in buses and horse-drawn vehicles. But they didn't impede our self-made walking tour in the slightest.
The history was interesting, too. Of course Oglethorpe was larger than life, but did you know that John Wesley was here and Methodism got its start in Savannah? Or that General Nathanael Greene came to Savannah after the Revolution? That Lafayette spoke at Greene's funeral? Or that Juliette Low started the Girl Scouts here? We also saw the house Sherman used as his headquarters, and bought a new biography of Sherman in a nifty independent bookstore - E. Shaver, Bookseller.
We walked over to the visitor center, and, as soon as we used the johns we surveyed the crowd scene and left again. Besides, you really don't need any guides - the historical markers tell it all. Fountain in center of square
We went down steep steps to the waterfront for lunch, where we had Low Country Boil, consisting of boiled corn and potatoes and sausage, covered over by a million jumbo boiled shrimp with a tub of melted butter for dipping. We like to kid ourselves into thinking we can handle occasional big lunches because we don't eat dinner (at least not for the last four months or so).
After lunch we drove around and found truly canopied streets, with oaks and spanish moss on the outside and palms up the middle, and the genteel homes all had porte-cocheres and big yards. Then we found Bonaventure Cemetery, familiar to readers of Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil. We took some more pictures. We wish we could remember the significance of this cemetery to the book -- can anybody help?
So far, the variety of scenery more than matches our expectations. Of course, the mild days and brilliant blue skies don't hurt a bit!