13 Sep 2016
The Levis Ferry

We enjoy ferry boats so much that we frequently will take a detour just to avoid a bridge, taking a ferry instead. Driving along the north shore of the St. Lawrence River toward Quebec, we entered Tadoussac where the traffic ahead of us had stopped. Investigating, we learned that ahead of us was a ferry ramp, so we relaxed and joined the queue. It was a short crossing, maybe fifteen minutes, and then our road continued as though nothing unusual had occurred. (The ferry, like Caption many in Canada, was free.) Probably the most exciting part of these trips is entering and exiting the boat, but the ferrymen are skillful at shoehorning big trucks and tiny sportscars into place, and our truck gives them no problem.

We stayed in Levis, across the river from Quebec City, for several days. The guidebooks recommend taking the Levis ferry for a view of the walled city, so we gave that a try, and agree. Added to the view is the pleasure of seeing the contrast between the Quebec waterfront and the surrounding hillsides.

We had good views of a ship steaming upstream towards Montreal, with the pilot boat alongside to remove the pilot, and two cruise ships tied up in port (the pier on the Levis side could handle a cruise ship, too) and the Coast Guard Caption cutter, and sailboats which seemed to be drifting downstream with the powerful current with no chance of making it back up the river just under sail.

The park on the Levis side appears new. In fact, parts of walks and buildings are still being completed. It is a beautiful space for walking or bicycling, and is quite popular. There are plenty of chairs and benches and an extremely beautiful fountain, many spigots set into concrete and programmed to dance at different heights and sequences.

This ferry, unlike the one in Tadoussac, carried mostly tourists, at least on the day we crossed. Cars are allowed but were not plentiful; Quebec City is primarily a walking or biking city.